A car purchase at a dealership takes anywhere from 2 to 5 hours. Sometimes longer.
And most of that time? It's not negotiating. It's not test driving. It's waiting. Waiting for paperwork. Waiting for finance approvals. Waiting for someone to track down a second key or verify your insurance.
Here's what I've learned working inside a dealership: the customers who get in and out fastest aren't lucky. They're prepared.
They bring the right documents, know their numbers, and don't hit surprises that stall the process. The unprepared ones are sitting in the waiting area for an extra hour while someone calls their lender or hunts down proof of address.
This guide covers everything you need before walking into a dealership in Illinois. It's the same advice I give friends and family. Print it, screenshot it, text it to yourself. It'll save you hours.
One more thing: dealers want this to go smoothly too. They're not trying to waste your time. But they can only move as fast as the information you bring. Show up ready, and everybody wins.
Estimate your out-the-door price ahead of time to get real numbers that help you understand what you can realistically afford before you engage with any salesperson.
Out of the door price calculator
This matters more than people think, especially at larger dealerships.
The car you want might be sitting on a remote lot. It might need to be washed, gassed up, and pulled around front. Show up unannounced and you could wait 30-45 minutes before you even see the thing.
Call ahead. Confirm the car is available. Set an actual appointment time. This gives the dealership a chance to have everything ready when you walk in.
A vehicle you saw online yesterday might be gone today. Sold. Out on a loaner. In service. Traded to another dealer.
A quick call saves you a wasted trip and the annoyance of arriving for a car that doesn't exist.
If you want extra peace of mind, ask for a quick FaceTime or video call before you make the trip. A good salesperson will happily walk around the car, show you the condition, and point out any flaws. If they refuse or make excuses, that tells you something.
A word of caution: some less-than-honest dealers will say anything to get you through the door. They'll swear the car is there, then pivot when you arrive. If something feels off (like they're vague about the VIN or dodge your questions), trust your gut. A good dealer will give you straight answers.
Don't schedule anything for 3-4 hours after you arrive. Rushing a major purchase leads to bad decisions. If you're stressed about making your kid's soccer game, you won't be clearheaded when it matters most.
Here's the other thing: you might fall in love with something you didn't expect. A lot of people walk in wanting one car and leave with another. That's totally normal, but it takes time. Another test drive, another round of numbers, more questions to ask.
Work with a dealership that welcomes this. A good, collaborative salesperson will happily show you options you hadn't considered: a former loaner with low miles, a certified pre-owned that fits your budget better, something from the used lot you didn't know existed. That flexibility is a feature, not a bug. But it adds to the clock.
Timing tip: Fridays, Saturdays, and the last day of the month are chaos. Finance managers are slammed, and you'll wait longer between every step. If you've got flexibility, a Tuesday or Wednesday morning is a different experience entirely.
Not all colors come in all trims. Some cost extra. That perfect build you configured online might blow past your budget once taxes and fees land.
Know what matters most. Know what you can live without. Having this sorted in your head speeds up every conversation.
Car seats. Golf clubs. Skis. Whatever lives in your trunk half the year, bring it and test the fit.
Worried about squeezing into your garage? Need to haul something specific? Bring measurements. Better to know now than discover a problem in your driveway next week.
What's your score? If you don't know, check before you go. Most credit card apps show it for free. So does Credit Karma.
If your credit is frozen (which is smart for security), you'll need to lift the freeze before the dealership can pull your report. That means calling the bureaus or logging into their sites and remembering passwords you probably haven't touched in two years. Not a dealbreaker, but an annoying hiccup that stalls the loan approval while everyone waits.
Lenders want more than your current address and employer. Have this ready:
This stuff speeds things up more than you'd think.
Not the payment that "sounds fine." The number you can actually afford when you factor in insurance, gas, and maintenance. Be honest with yourself. Your future self will thank you.
If keeping payments low is the priority, consider leasing. Sometimes you can even lease a certified pre-owned. Ask if it's available.
The finance office will offer you extended warranties, tire and wheel protection, paint coverage, GAP insurance, and more.
Here's the thing: most of these aren't scams. (Nitrogen in tires for $199? Okay, that one's a scam.) But many of them make real sense for the right buyer.
Hate surprise repair bills? An aftermarket warranty can be incredibly valuable, especially for electronics like sensors, cameras, and screens. Used it many times myself and was happy I had it. Those repairs add up fast. Park on Chicago streets? Wheel and tire protection pays for itself. Kids? Pets? Interior coverage might be worth a look.
The problem is, most people see these products for the first time in the finance office, after hours of shopping, when they just want to go home. That's not when you make good decisions.
Do some thinking beforehand. If you know what might make sense for your situation, you can ask the right questions: What's excluded? What's the deductible? What are the coverage length options? Those answers help you decide and help you skip what you don't need.
If You Have a Trade-In
Trade-in values are set algorithmically, based on similar vehicles in your area. A fresh wax and shampoo won't move the needle.
New tires might get you a bit more. But fixing every bumper scratch? Deep cleaning the carpets? Save your money. You're not getting it back.
One exception: if there's body damage that insurance would normally cover, get it fixed. That does affect value.
Spare tire. Jack. Cargo cover. Second-row headrests. Whatever came with the car, make sure it's still in it. Missing pieces ding your appraisal.
Replacing a missing key costs $200-500 depending on the car. The dealer will deduct it from your trade. Go dig through that junk drawer.
If you're still making payments, call your lender and get the 10-day payoff quote. Don't trust the balance in your app. It doesn't include per diem interest and can be off by $50-100 or more.
Have the lender's name and number handy in case the dealer needs to verify.
Can't find it? You can still trade, but it adds paperwork and can delay things.
Personal items, garage door openers, toll transponders, that random bag in the trunk you forgot about. I've heard about someone who had to run home and clean out their car. Don't be that person.
If it's from another state, or your address doesn't match where you live now, bring backup: a utility bill, bank statement, or credit card statement with your name and current address, dated within the last 30 days.
Has to be current. Expired won't cut it. In Illinois, you need active insurance before you can drive off with a new car. Have your agent's number handy. You might need to add the vehicle on the spot.
If you're self-employed or your credit is borderline, bring recent pay stubs or tax returns. Speeds things up if the lender asks questions.
If someone else is going on the loan (spouse, parent, co-signer), they have to show up in person with their own ID and documents. Can't do it remotely.
Visited another dealership? Got numbers? Bring the paperwork. Pre-approved through your bank or credit union? Bring that too. Leverage helps, and it speeds up the conversation.
You'll need something for the down payment. Checks are easiest. Cards work too, but dealers often cap how much you can charge ($2,000-5,000 typically) and some add a processing fee.
A few things that trip up Illinois buyers:
You need insurance before you drive off. Illinois requires active coverage before you take delivery. Don't assume you can handle it later. Have your agent's number ready, or add the car through your insurer's app right there.
Sales tax depends on where you live. Not where you buy. Where you register. Rates in the Chicago suburbs range from around 7% to over 10%. On a $40,000 car, that's a difference of over $1,000.
Trade-ins reduce your tax bill. You only pay sales tax on the difference between the new car's price and your trade-in value. Trade in a $15,000 car on a $40,000 purchase? You're taxed on $25,000. That's real savings.
Budget for fees. Doc fee, title, license. Expect $400-700 on top of the purchase price. Not negotiable. Just part of the deal.
Some dealers let you take a car home overnight or for a weekend. Your commute on Route 14 will tell you more than a lap around the lot ever could. Worth asking, especially if you're torn between two options.
If you're comparing models, try to drive them back-to-back. Same day if possible. Your impressions are sharper when you can compare directly.
This checklist won't make buying a car instant. But it'll make it faster, smoother, and way less frustrating. For you and the dealership.
Download the checklist in the PDF format so you can check off all items as you prepare for your visit.
Want a deeper look at how to approach car shopping? I wrote a longer guide on thinking through your real needs, doing test drives right, and avoiding common traps: Car Shopping in Chicago's Northwest Suburbs: How to Make It Stress-Free.
And if you're shopping in the Northwest Chicago suburbs and want someone in your corner, I offer free consultations. No fees, no pressure. Just honest help.
No pressure.
No obligation.
Just clarity.